Yesterday I visited Tivoli, the world's oldest amusement park. The evening kicked off with an opera concert — La Bohème — and when the curtain fell, the entire audience rose to their feet in a standing ovation. After that, at the Pantomime Theatre, an open-air stage tucked right inside the park, I caught a ballet performance. And honestly? The dancers were absolutely brilliant.
Right next to the Pantomime Theatre sits Grøften, arguably the oldest and most distinguished restaurant in all of Tivoli — a classic Danish institution that's been open since 1874. Dining there felt like stepping back into Copenhagen 150 years ago.
I ordered Grøftens Stjerneskud: a golden, crispy fried fish fillet as the base, piled high with hand-peeled Arctic shrimp, asparagus, and Danish caviar. It's one of Denmark's most iconic all-seafood dishes — incredibly fresh, and generously portioned. Turns out it's a true national treasure on a plate.
A glass of red wine to finish, and just like that, my first — wonderfully packed — day in Copenhagen ended on the most perfect note.